Determining skin undertone is a foundational step in selecting makeup that appears balanced and natural, yet it remains one of the most misunderstood aspects of complexion matching. Undertone influences how colours interact with the skin across foundations, concealers, blushes, bronzers, and lip products. In Australia, where strong natural daylight, high ultraviolet exposure, and seasonal changes frequently alter surface skin tone, accurately identifying undertone requires a methodical and evidence-based approach rather than reliance on simplified tests or marketing labels.
Undertone is often conflated with skin tone, redness, or tanning level, leading to persistent confusion and mismatched product choices. While surface colour can fluctuate due to sun exposure, inflammation, or pigmentation, undertone remains relatively stable over time. Understanding this distinction is essential for achieving consistency across makeup routines and avoiding the cycle of repeated shade mismatches.
This article provides educational guidance for Australian readers and does not replace professional consultation. Undertone exists along a spectrum, and not all individuals fit neatly into predefined categories.
What Is Skin Undertone?
Skin undertone refers to the subtle hue beneath the surface of the skin that influences how colours appear once applied. Unlike surface tone, which reflects the immediate colour of the skin and can change with sun exposure or inflammation, undertone is determined by a combination of genetics, vascular characteristics, and melanin distribution.
Undertones are commonly described as warm, cool, neutral, or olive, though these categories are simplifications of a continuous spectrum. Warm undertones typically present with yellow, golden, or peach hues; cool undertones with pink, red, or blue hues; neutral undertones with a balance of warm and cool; and olive undertones with a muted green or grey cast. These descriptors serve as reference points rather than strict classifications.
Recognising undertone as an underlying characteristic rather than a visible colour helps clarify why certain shades consistently appear harmonious or discordant.
Undertone vs Surface Tone
Surface tone reflects the colour visible at the skin’s surface and is influenced by factors such as sun exposure, redness, hyperpigmentation, and hormonal changes. In Australia, surface tone often deepens with sun exposure, particularly during summer months, without altering undertone.
This distinction explains why a foundation shade that matches depth during winter may appear mismatched in summer, even though undertone remains unchanged. Confusing surface tone changes with undertone shifts is a common source of frustration when selecting makeup.
Accurate undertone identification allows for seasonal depth adjustment without altering colour balance.
Why Undertone Matters in Makeup
Undertone influences how makeup colours blend with natural skin colouring. When undertone alignment is correct, makeup appears cohesive and integrated; when mismatched, products may appear grey, orange, pink, or ashy despite being close in depth.
Foundation mismatches are the most visible consequence of incorrect undertone identification, but undertone also affects blush placement, bronzer warmth, lip colour selection, and even eye makeup harmony.
In Australian daylight, undertone mismatches are often more apparent due to neutral lighting conditions that reveal subtle colour imbalances.
Common Undertone Identification Methods
Several commonly cited methods are used to estimate undertone, including vein colour, jewellery preference, and sun response. While these can provide general guidance, they are not definitive.
The vein test, which suggests blue or purple veins indicate cool undertones and green veins indicate warm undertones, can be unreliable due to lighting conditions, skin thickness, and vascular variation. Similarly, jewellery preference may reflect aesthetic taste rather than biological undertone.
These methods are best viewed as starting points rather than diagnostic tools.
The Role of Natural Daylight
Natural daylight provides the most accurate context for assessing undertone. Artificial lighting often introduces colour casts that distort perception.
Examining the skin near a window or outdoors, without makeup, allows for clearer observation of underlying hues. Comparing how different coloured fabrics or makeup shades interact with the skin in daylight can reveal undertone tendencies more reliably than isolated tests.
Australian daylight is particularly effective for undertone assessment due to its brightness and neutrality.
Olive Undertones and Common Confusion
Olive undertones are frequently misclassified as warm or neutral due to their muted appearance. Individuals with olive undertones may find that both warm and cool shades appear slightly off, often leaning orange or grey.
Olive undertones are characterised by a green-grey base that can coexist with surface warmth or coolness. This complexity makes shade matching challenging, particularly in limited shade ranges.
Recognising olive undertone characteristics can prevent repeated mismatch and dissatisfaction.
Redness, Acne, and Pigmentation
Surface redness from acne, rosacea, or irritation can obscure undertone, leading to incorrect classification as cool-toned. Similarly, hyperpigmentation may introduce warmth that masks underlying undertone.
Assessing undertone in areas with less redness, such as the jawline or neck, can provide a clearer reference. Undertone should be evaluated independently of transient skin conditions.
Separating surface variation from underlying colour improves accuracy.
Undertone Across Different Depths
Undertone exists at all skin depths, from very fair to very deep. Misconceptions that certain undertones only occur at specific depths contribute to exclusion and misrepresentation in shade selection.
Deep skin tones may display undertone through subtle shifts in red, gold, or olive hues rather than obvious colour cues. Fair skin may show undertone through translucency rather than saturation.
Depth does not determine undertone.
Undertone and Product Oxidation
Foundation oxidation can complicate undertone identification by altering colour after application. Products that oxidise may appear warmer or darker over time, mimicking undertone mismatch.
Allowing products to settle before evaluation helps distinguish oxidation from incorrect undertone selection.
Oxidation should be considered during undertone assessment.
Professional Assessment vs Self-Evaluation
Professional shade matching can be helpful but is influenced by lighting, experience, and available shade ranges. Self-evaluation guided by education and daylight testing often yields comparable results.
Combining professional input with personal observation supports more consistent outcomes.
Education reduces reliance on trial-and-error.
Limitations and Realistic Expectations
Not all individuals fit neatly into undertone categories. Many exist between descriptors, and undertone perception may vary depending on lighting and surrounding colours.
Expecting a single label to explain all colour interactions is unrealistic. Undertone identification is a tool, not an absolute rule.
Flexibility improves long-term satisfaction.
Undertone identification succeeds when it guides harmony rather than enforcing rigid categories.
Colour balance principle
Where to Buy
Sephora | Mecca | Chemist Warehouse | Amazon
Final Perspective
Finding skin undertone is a foundational skill for effective makeup selection, particularly in Australia’s bright daylight conditions and variable climate. By distinguishing undertone from surface tone, evaluating skin in natural light, and approaching categorisation with flexibility, individuals can achieve more consistent and harmonious results across complexion products. Undertone is best used as a guiding framework rather than a rigid label, supporting informed and adaptable makeup choices over time.